Edinburgh – whatmamathinks

“Half a capital and half a country town, the whole city leads a double existence; it has long trances of the one and flashes of the other; like the king of the Black Isles, it is half alive and half a monumental marble.” – Robert Louise Stevenson

Edinburgh News informs us that “Despite being set in London, Stevenson’s famous tale of Jekyll and Hyde is thought to be heavily inspired by Edinburgh because of this ‘double existence.”

We did not have to wake up at the crack of dawn on my birthday because our first activity – historic tour of the Royal Mile by Mercat tours was not till 10 am. I woke up to lovely birthday wish from Sahana, got dressed for the day and left our apartment for a full Scottish breakfast at Edinburgh Larder. We had heard the restaurant was popular and often, there were lines to get in. Fortunately, we had arrived early enough and found 2 seats right away. We shared a full Scottish breakfast between the two of us, complete with haggis (savory pudding made with sheep’s heart, liver, lungs, oatmeal), blood sausage, toast, eggs, mushrooms etc. Neither haggis nor blood sausage tasted good but at least we can claim we had Scottish breakfast. It was a gastronomic experience. After breakfast we had time to kill before our tour (and also needed a bathroom) so we bought a coffee at Starbucks and waited.

The walking tour was truly informative and also entertaining. Our guide, Veni, was witty and knowledgeable. We learned a lot about the history of Scotland, and especially, the Royal Mile which extends between the Palace of Holyroodhouse at the bottom to the Edinburgh Castle at the top. Don’t let the name fool you. Scottish Mile is longer than a regular mile. We were told the Royal Mile in reality is 1.13 mile which is supposedly old Scots mile, different from English mile.

Our tour ended at the Edinburgh Castle. Veni took us inside the castle, told us about the history of Scotland and the castle’s significance in its history and left us to our own devices. The weather was funky that day. There was constant interplay of rain and sunshine. The wind, however, was constant. Sahana wrote in their note that it was ‘windy af’ and I will include that to make you understand how windy the day was. We got wet and then the sun came out to dry us up till the rains came back to wet us again. Anyway, we took our time enjoying the views of Edinburgh from the ramparts of the castle. We stayed to watch the 1 pm gun shot that is quite a spectacle at the castle. We went in to the csstle’s cafe for some nourishment and found a table with a fabulous view.

From the castle, we meandered down looking for the Writer’s Museum which has exhibits of the three famous literary figures from Scotland – Robert Burns, Sir Walter Scott, and Robert Louise Stevenson. We looked at books, manuscripts, portraits and personal items of the three stalwarts of literature who hailed from Scotland.

Towards the end of our tour of the museum we both were getting very hungry. Instead of a birthday dinner, we decided to go for a sumptuous meal that worked as both lunch and dinner at an Indian restaurant called Dishoom where we got authentic Kolkata style chicken roll. I was elated! Although I had my doubts as we entered the restaurant as all the staff appeared to be white but the food was so good that I forgot all my doubts. It was indeed a delightful birthday meal. Sahana assured me that the people making the food must be desi.

After a good meal our spirits were high. We had to check out the Burns monument since we were supposed to catch our Hairy Coo tour bus next day from there for our day trip. We walked over to the Burns Monument and then to Old Calton Cemetery where we saw David Hume mausoleum.

We continued our walk to the new Calton cemetery. Since we were halfway there, we decided to see the Palace of Holyroodhouse where the Royal family still stays when they visit Scotland. On a whim, we decided to buy tickets (yet another treat from Sahana for my birthday) for the palace and explore the royal palace where English monarchs have stayed for generations since 12th century. The impressive front of the palace was bathed by sunlight when we visited and the limestone structure looked like it was glowing. We took an audio tour of the building and was amazed and awed by the history that we were witnessing.

When we came out of the palace, we looked up in the distance, we saw the famed volcanic peak, Arthur’s Seat. Not only was it majestic, it was also mind boggling that the stone and flint tools found there reveal human activity as far back as 5000 BC. When we had our fill of seeing and photographing Arthur’s Seat, we slowly made our way up the Royal Mile to go back to our apartment to rest for an hour before another Mercat walking tour. This time it was going to be an adult only ghost tour of the Royal Mile – Dead, Doomed, and Buried. This was another birthday gift from Sahana. I have asked for Ghost tours from my family as birthday gifts for the last two years. I am not sure what says that about me….

That rest was vital since both of us were so tired from walking all day. We saluted the Edinburgh castle visible from our balcony and plopped on the bed for an hour. With restored spirits and tired legs, we headed out to meet Shannon from Mercat Tours to hear about all the spooky tales of the historic Royal Mile. Decked in a black cape and adorned with fascinating orange and black eye make up, Shannon was an excellent guide who took us all the way down the Royal Mile regaling us with tales of murder and mayhem and ghost sighting (some in our group felt a presence. Alas, we didn’t). Then we went down the vaults of South Bridge and things started getting creepy with ghostly lights and confined passages. But this is what I love about ghost tours. Scarier the better.

We were really exhausted after the tour ended. We found ourselves again at the bottom of the Royal Mile and had to trudge uphill to get to our apartment. I believe we went up and down the Royal Mile at least 3 times that day. But we had to stop by yet another cemetery – Greyfriars Kirk and Greyfriars cemetery, since it was on our way.

I must say the light was fading and the cemetery started looking really empty and spooky,, especially after listening to incidents of paranormal activity from Shannon, so we slowly strolled out of it and continued on our way back. Sahana got hungry and Sainsbury, a popular supermarket chain all over UK, saved the day. As a final birthday gift, Sahana bought me my favorite – Cadbury Fruit and Nut chocolate.

With food and chocolate in hand, we climbed the Royal Mile again, came back to the apartment and ended our day and my very fulfilling birthday.

I think people should celebrate their birthdays exactly the way they want to – party, quiet time, spending quality time with loved ones, eating food of their choice. This year, I spent my birthday exactly the way I wanted to. I saw, I learned, I laughed, I experienced, I ate. And I shared all of that with one of my most loved ones.

Into no other city does the sight of the country enter so far; if you do not meet a butterfly, you shall certainly catch a glimpse of far-away trees upon your walk; and the place is full of theatre tricks in the way of scenery. You peep under an arch, you descend stairs that look as if they would land you in a cellar, you turn to the back-window of a grimy tenement in a lane:—and behold! you are face-to-face with distant and bright prospects. You turn a corner, and there is the sun going down into the Highland hills. You look down an alley, and see ships tacking for the Baltic.

Robert Louis Stevenson

We packed up relatively early and checked out of Tavistock hotel in London to go to Charing Cross Railway Station to catch our train to Edinburgh. We arrived at the station early because we wanted to see the famous platform 9 ¾ from where Harry Potter boarded the train to Hogwarts. Boy, was that a disappointment! Disney has commercialized it to the extent that they are charging 20 pounds for pictures. And people were lining up to shell out the money. Not us. We went and got bad coffee instead and boarded our train. The train ride was everything that we had envisioned. Lush English countryside, cottages, ugly apartment buildings as we neared big cities, people and dogs walking along meadows, plump sheep, and healthy looking cows – we saw all these as the train thundered along. We read some, dozed a little, and looked out the window, taking in the scenery. The vista changed as the train neared Edinburgh. From lush green flat land to rocky hilly areas and the ocean in the distance. We had sunny weather in London but the sky turned grey as the train brought us to Edinburgh.

We finally arrived, dragged our luggage out of the train station and were confronted with steep steps to go up to our AirBnb. We looked up in dismay, took a deep breath, and picked up our suitcases.

My months of work at gym paid off. I was able to conquer the steps and arrived close to the magnificent St. Giles Cathedral.

Since our rental wouldn’t be ready for another hour, we found a pub to get a drink and some food while we waited. Sahana ordered a Loch Lomond stout while I ate a bland chicken pie and people watched. When it was time, we found or rental, dropped our luggage, arranged our stuff and cleaned up. The best part of our rental was the breathtaking view of the Edinburgh Castle from our balcony, spread out in all its Gothic splendor atop a high cliff. Every time we caught a glimpse of that imposing structure, we stopped in our tracks.

After an hour or so in the apartment, we headed out to explore Edinburgh. Sahana had booked a History Walk of Royal Mile walking tour and a ghost tour of the Old Town for the next day so we decided to explore the part of Edinburgh which were off the beaten track. Thanks to an influencer in TikTok, Sahana found out about an area called Dean Village which, on our phones, looked simply beautiful. When we navigated our way there, the village we realized that the pictures did not do the village justice. Dean Village is a green oasis amidst the city of Edinburgh. It was originally called The Water of Leith village, a bustling milling village found in the 12th century. We came across some stone plaques with bread and pies depicted on them. As we looked down on to the residential buildings in the village, it looked like a town from a fairy tale; pretty, neat, picturesque, and sleepy. Situated next to the Water of Leith, the quiet walkways along the gently flowing river could easily make one forget that this tranquil space is actually within the heart of a bustling city. We walked the pathways, protected by dark green foliage above us, listening to the sweet rustle of the running water next to us and boisterous bird song around us.

From Dean Village we walked to Stockbridge, admiring its dark Georgian architecture and quaint cobble stoned streets flanked on both sides by cute, mostly independently owned shops. We strolled towards pretty Circus Lane and took pictures of the fronts of daintily painted houses decorated with flowering bushes. The sun was hitting it just right for us to admire the prettiness of the whole neighborhood.

At this point, both of us were getting tired and hungry. We stopped at Rosa’s Cafe for some delicious Thai food before slowly making our way back to our apartment. Sahana tested my navigation skills to take us back to our rental. I failed. I was so busy looking at the sights around me that I did not pay attention to the road that led us back to our temporary abode. Fortunately Sahana knew exactly where we were headed.

Before wrapping up this blog I want to mention one (of the many) joy of traveling with Sahana. One of the commonality we had was our mutual love for food and our lack of discernment in a good way. This is important, especially for me, because my husband is a vegan who doesn’t eat most vegetables. We are great travel partners except when it comes to food. We are limited to the number of restaurants that we can go to when Sean and I travel. With Sahana, it was such a delight to ask “Do you want _____ food?” “Yes, let’s go.”

During the span of two weeks, we shared and experienced some wonderful memories and sights. We also ate some amazing food. And it would be remiss of me if I don’t include them in my blogs.

June 3rd was my birthday. Sahana had planned some special activities for that day, so we read for a few minutes and went to sleep to be up and ready for birthday adventure.